The Holiday Tree Lights Up for the First Time Since the Outbreak of the Conflict

For two years during the Gaza war, every festive public event marking the holiday season were called off in Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This place is believed to be where Christians believe Jesus was born.

But, after a recent truce, the holy city determined that this year the festivities would return, as symbolised by the lighting of its customary, large holiday tree in front of the ancient Church of the Nativity.

"It's been a bad two years without celebration; no holiday, no jobs, no work," remarks the city's mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here from tourism and tourism had fallen to nothing."

He accepts that the decision to restart festivities was not without controversy, given the ongoing hardship in Gaza – including for those in its tiny Christian community, who often have relatives in Bethlehem.

"Certain voices argue it is unsuitable and others say it's appropriate," Mr Canawati explains. "But deep inside my heart, I felt that this was the correct action to do since the Christmas season must never be halted or abandoned. This is the light of hope for us."

A Glimmer of Festivity Reappears

Residents – both Christians and Muslims – pose for selfies in front of the tree hung with gold and red ornaments in Manger Square. They are accompanied by a small number of foreign tourists.

Brightly coloured lights now decorate city streets with signs promoting holiday markets and festive events for children.

"We are delighted to have the tree, first thing, and to welcome visitors to Bethlehem and to be able to celebrate Christmas in its authentic spirit," says local jewellery designer Nadya Hazboun.

"This place is where everything began, so this is where we can convey the message to the world of what Christmas truly represents. And now, if Christmas is peaceful, I sincerely hope it will bring a nice message for the entire world."

Economic Prospects and Challenges

The neighbouring towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to light Christmas trees soon. Hotels – which have stood mostly vacant for two years – are seeing a rise in reservations from Arab citizens of Israel along with some foreign visitors.

One tourist from Russia, Angelica, is making her second pilgrimage to the Holy Land. "I think every person should visit at minimum one time during their lifetime," she says.

"I hope many visitors will return soon as it is sorrowful with few tourists. The sole aspect that's good is there are no lengthy queues – you can come and see more things. On my prior visit it was necessary to wait in a queue for hours minimum."

For now, the souvenir stores scattered throughout Bethlehem have little business, and near the pale walls of the Nativity Church, which date back to the Fourth Century, tour guides are mostly unoccupied. Prior to the Gaza war, it was often crammed with people.

"Bethlehem is a tourist city; absent visitors there is no livelihood," laments a guide named Hamza. "We hope to see individuals returning as in the past: from European nations, the Middle East, America, Latin America and all over. We begin with the Christmas tree lighting, and we'll wait."

The Lingering Economic Toll

Over the last two years, unemployment has skyrocketed within Bethlehem. Since the deadly attacks led by Hamas on southern Israel in October 2023 which triggered the war, tens of thousands of Palestinian labourers from the West Bank region have been blocked from entering Israel and Israeli settlements to work.

At the same time, government employees have been paid just a portion of their salaries from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – which governs areas within the West Bank. The PA relies on tax revenues collected by Israel, which it is currently holding – amounting to 1.76 billion dollars, as reported by the UN's trade and development agency.

Israeli officials state it is holding the funds due to the fact that the PA makes payments to Palestinian prisoners that incentivise violence against Israelis. The authority – facing international pressure to enact reforms – says it has recently changed its social welfare system.

An Austere Christmas Season

The grim economic situation means that for many Palestinian Christians, even though there are currently public events as well as religious ceremonies, it will be an austere Christmas.

On the periphery of Manger Square, some patrons are waiting to buy sizzling balls of falafel from a row of shops.

"We are getting ready for Christmas after one of our hardest periods as Palestinians and as Christians," says Alaa Salameh, an owner of Afteem, a decades-old family-run eatery that has witnessed its revenues collapse. He says lately many families could not even afford falafel – an inexpensive, traditional food.

"Christians will try to mark the occasion but according to their situation," Mr Salameh anticipates. "An individual wishing to take his kids to a festive event or the theatre or similar, he doesn't have the money to expend for this celebration."

Prayers for Peace and Prosperity

Within the grotto at the base of the church, a resident follows a small Indian tour group, bending down near a silver star that indicates the spot where tradition states that Jesus was born and lighting a candle close by.

With tensions still high across the region, Bethlehem residents say they are praying for peace – and wishing for tourists to come back to the location where it is believed Christmas began.